Entering the trade. Where to begin your training.

In January of this year I attended a week long Diamond Grading lab class with GIA (Gemological Institute of America) London (www.gialondon.co.uk). Which I have to say was very good. I was very surprised by the variation in students there. The students ranged from me with 18 years experience under my belt, through career changing budding designers, people with an interest in jewellery to one person who was interested in buying Diamonds, but wasn't confident in his local jewellers. Wow! What a mixed bag.

If you are entering the trade, think very carefully about the courses you want to do. When talking to fellow students during breaks, it was obvious that many had picked the wrong course. Whereas this course was very good, a design course may have been better for some. The people just entering the trade may have found the NAG (National Association of Goldsmiths) JET 1 & 2 courses better suited (www.jewellers-online.org). The GIA do an entry level course and qualification, but although much of the knowledge is transferable, it is obviously an American course. The students that "just wanted to make jewellery" would have found the "Introduction to jewellery making" short course at The School of Jewellery in Birmingham (www.schoolofjewellery.co.uk ) just perfect. Buying a Diamond? Gem-A (www.gem-a.com ) offer a basic Diamond grading introduction. I have found both the courses and instructors at these places very good. If you wanted to get a little further on, you can feed your need with more in depth courses on gemmology, diamonds, jewellery making, design, valuations, engraving, setting........the list goes on, you can find something to suit through one of these providers.

If you do decide to take on any of these courses, don't treat it as a hobby, the more you put into it, the more you'll get out of it. Any course fees you pay are an investment in your progression and success, just make sure it's the right course for you.

I have to make a special mention for the GIA instructor from the Diamond Grading course, Bingham Henderson. She was very good at balancing her time between students of mixed experience and abilities. From past experience I have found that tutors either spend more time with experienced people, because its easier, or with fresh students, because they know nothing and need more help. This is a very difficult balance to maintain. There were class members that were much more challenging than others in their needs and also people like me with bad habits to re-train. She managed to do this and get an excellent pass rate from her students. Very good. My only problem was the fact that some mathematics were involved which she said were basic. Buy a calculator before you go! Her idea of basic maths and mine were a little different!

Thanks for reading, contact me if you want anymore information and i will see what I can do.

Take care.

Damian

Beware New Ruby Treatment.

Lead glass filled Rubies have been around for a while now. With a trained eye you can spot the difference in lustre on occasion but it's easier to identify if you can see the "flash effect" caused by the difference in optical properties. Slight problem, now they have got around flash effect by using additives other than lead. This produces a very good effect, which is much harder to recognise. It's still breaking news for the moment and when I have more information I'll let you know. The gist is, if you are offered too good to be true Rubies, think! Take Care Damian

Very cool tool: Horn mallets.

There was once a tool that was commonplace in most jewellery and silversmithing workshops. This was the horn mallet or hammer (I won't be drawn on the difference, it gets too technical). These were usually made from a compressed Ram's horn wrapped as Rawhide mallets are typically constructed. Some were made of a material more dense material such as Buffalo horn, which was made from a block and shaped from there. I have always thought the Buffalo mallets were far superior as they do not de-laminate over time and start to unravel. Also, in my experience, Buffalo is less likely to chip, that said always wear eye protection because when you make things of beauty it is useful to be able to see them! Whats the point of these mallets? Horn is harder and heavier than wood, even Lignum Vitae. It is however, limited by the size of the raw material. If you want to use a hammer or mallet that is small and easy to wield, will shape and stretch precious metals, but.....here's the important bit......won't mark the metal like steel, horn is the answer. They are also great for adjusting watch bracelets with pins you have to hammer as if you slip it won't mark the bracelet or leave behind filings as brass ones do.I've been making and using horn mallets up to 28mm diameter for many years now and would never go back. I have recently found a good reliable supplier for horn from the Indian Water Buffalo. Yes, this is material from an actual animal, but is a by product of the meat industry, just the same as leather. I believe this is a great way to show respect for the animal as just using the meat is wasteful (this is also Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall's philosophy). Having found this supplier, I am trying to get someone interested in supplying these to the trade and public. I think this is just the beggining as there are many other applications for horn. If you make handmade chain, I will be making some very special winding sticks. Great tools to use wether you are a professional and enjoying using something of quality or a craft worker with a slightly damp workshop (they don't rust). If I get someone interested ,I will let you all know. Take care, Damian.