Below is a snippet form the latest Gems and Gemology e-brief.

Synthetic Ruby Specimen Sold as Natural







Recently, the Dubai Central Laboratory received a rough specimen for identification. The red crystal had a distorted hexagonal shape and was attached to some matrix material. It was identified as ruby by its absorption spectrum with a handheld spectroscope, a finding confirmed by UV-Vis-NIR spectroscopy. Using a microscope, we observed curved striae and filled cavities; gas bubbles were visible in the filling material. We therefore identified this sample as synthetic ruby with filled fractures. Raman






G&G has reported on a number of synthetic rubies sold as natural crystals (see Fall 1993 Lab Notes, p. 204; Fall 2001 Gem News International, pp. 243-245). This case again illustrates the importance of gem laboratory reports and the necessity of thoroughly examining a piece before purchase.






- Nazar Ahmed and Hassan Al Marzooqi


Gemstone unit, Dubai Central Laboratory


Dubai, United Arab Emirates

As always. Never just collect, understand. Do what you can to understand and learn about an item you collect. Whether its coins, stamps, stones or minerals. There are always people out there with the intention of deceiving the unwary. Fake minerals are not a new thing. A few years back I was involved in prosecuting a man for producing fake wire silver specimens from a locality I know very well and it has NEVER produced specimens of this type. When you examine a specimen always look for glue lines, even a genuine piece may have been repaired.

Think about known localities and what type of specimens they provide. Do the specimen and matrix seem compatible/plausible? Rubies in limestone are unlikely, but in marble are very likely. Does the purported source match the type of specimen? Ruby in marble from Tanzania? No way. Be vigilant and if in doubt, get advice.

Take care,
Damian

Is romance dead? Or just the passion?

This post came about by someone buying a diamond purely on the details of a fake certificate. Where this particular consumer managed to do alright in this deal, many don't. What surprised me about this is that someone was prepared to buy a precious object based on what a piece of paper says, rather than look at it and make a judgement. Not everyone is a diamond expert, fair enough, but when buying, go to someone you can trust and at least use your eyes.

Every day I deal with people looking for a piece of jewellery for "celebrations or commemorations" , occasions where emotions should be running high. Buying a gift for a loved one. An engagement ring for "The One". A locket to put a picture of a departed loved one in. An endless list of highly emotive occasions. So why is it that romance and passion for pieces of jewellery seems to be going out of the window in preference for pieces of paper, weights and statistics?

Diamonds are the prime example. In my workplace the decision has been made to only sell certificated single stone diamond rings. Certificated means that someone (hopefully an independent, respected laboratory) has looked at the diamond and listed its "qualities" or attributes and measurements. My reference to who is important if you are going to go purely on the piece of paper. One high street chain state that each diamond has been graded by their Managing Director. No mean feat, I haven't the time to grade all of ours in one shop, let alone a group of 60! If everyone subscribed to this idea, you would only see the modern round brilliant cut in everyones rings as it ticks all the boxes on a certificate.

When I was taking part in a grading course in London this year, both my class tutor and the Director of Education said to look at the stone and assess it before taking measurements. This is referring to the cut grade and means that your opinion of how the stone looks has an affect on the final grading. Even this is broken down into smaller pieces. Brilliance: how bright a diamond is, how much light it reflects back. Pattern: Does it look symmetrical and pleasing to the eye. Fire: An interesting one. How it throws back a little twinkle of different colours to you as it moves. Looking at fire in a diamond I think is one of the nicer things to do. You almost have to daydream, blurring your vision slightly as if you were a child watching ants scurry around their nest. It never fails to take me back to childhood.

Other than the modern brilliant cut, most cuts of stone would have an un-flattering description on a certificate. Modified Brilliant cut is the term used to describe many cuts, oval, pear, marquise to name a few. An Asscher cut, square cut and French cut often have the same description but look totally different. Where Asschers and French cuts look stunning, in fact mesmerising by candle light where a brilliant cut would look dull and un-interesting.

How did you choose your spouse or partner if you have one? Did you look at a list of specs? Hair and eye colour, height, weight etc. Some people do, but most don't. My wife is was not my usual "type", but she is the most wonderful woman I've ever met. She knows more about me than anyone and has a smile so warm, she could melt tungsten (metal workers joke). But as a list of stats, I wouldn't have picked her and what a mistake that would have been. As for the diamond she wears, it has no certificate, but its perfect for her.

Certificates are useful, but they can't beat a decent look, guidance from an expert and a bit of instinct. Choose with care and attention.

Take care,
Damian

Namakwa Diamonds announced two rare rough diamonds, a 7.53 carat vivid orange and a 26.74 carat D color Type IIa stones, both with flawless potential, are being tendered in Johannesburg.


Namakwa’s Head of Sales & Trading, Heno Kruger said, “Given the rarity and desirability of stones of this size, we expect it to be the talk of the town for some time to come.”

The diamonds were recovered from the South East Node of Namakwa’s North West Province mining operations in South Africa. Namakwa Diamonds is an integrated diamond resource group focused on Southern Africa founded by Tom Kruger in 1979.

Are they trying to reproduce the Pumpkin Diamond's unique story? Shame the Orange will only yield around 3cts, but stunning none the less.

Take care
D

Natural Pearls

Hopefully this will be a picture of a couple of natural, undrilled pearls with a one penny coin for scale, from my collection. I will post a little more information at a later date, but for now, the one on the left is a Natural Tahitian and the one on the right is a Natural Akoya.

Got it covered? Get it covered!

Insurance. Nobody likes it, but everybody needs it. Most of us have household insurance and assume it covers everything we have. It's VERY important to ensure you are properly covered for the risks that apply and make sure any valuations are up to date.

I am not an insurance guru, broker or loss adjuster by trade, but sadly I deal with lots of insurance claims for lost or stolen items, with a definite rise in stolen items. If you haven't had your watch and jewellery items valued in the past 2 years, you could find you are grossly under-insured.

What does this mean when you have a claim? Most policies have a per article limit, other terms are used for this but it basically means any item that would be over this amount needs to be valued and specified. A higher premium would need to be paid, but in the event of a claim there should be fewer problems. If an item is not listed separately and its value is higher than the per article limit, the insurance company would pay out or not at their own discretion.

If an item was valued at £2000 but you were covered to £1000, they may pay out £1000 or nothing at all, it's up to them. Some insurance companies are great to deal with and realise people can get caught out and will pay a higher amount. If you arm them in this way, be prepared to have a claim refused.

Prices are generally high in the UK at the moment. Gold prices are high due to people investing this way because of the insecurity of shares. The sterling exchange rate is low, most commodities (diamonds, stones, metals etc.) are traded in US Dollars. Products made abroad have had price increases due to exchange rates (Swiss watches) There are a few other reasons too. It is a very easy time to get caught out.

What do you do? Consult with your local valuer, through a jewellers or direct, and discuss what you need. It is important that the valuer sees these articles "in the flesh" so to speak. They can then advise you which items are likely to require valuation. Once the valuation is completed, submit a copy to your insurance company, they will advise you of the increase to your premium, pay it and hey presto you're covered! Simple (ish).

I realise it costs money to get a valuation. But a valuation from a reliable and respected source is worth its weight in gold, if you'll excuse the pun. If something bad happens, but you can make that £2000 claim, its paid for itself! If you applied this penny pinching logic to everything you wouldn't have bothered with insurance in the first place.

How do you find a reliable source? There is an organization in the UK that most reputable valuers belong to. The Institute of Registered Valuers. Whereas I don't totally agree with all of their guidelines, generally they hit the mark. This is not to say that a non-member is no good as the valuer I work with isn't an IRV member, but he is very good. You may have a local jewellers that has a good reputation, try them.

There are plenty of rogues out there, so be careful. My attention was recently drawn to a website offering valuations cheaply, without seeing the items! I really wouldn't want to be trying to help someone with their claim if this was their supporting documentation! Surely this is impossible without a very strong psychic connection. Daft! You get what you pay for!

If anyone needs help in finding a valuer locally I may be able to point you in the right direction, get in touch. Please think about your own situation carefully. If your policy is index linked it may be lagging behind. Index linking can work against you the other way around also, meaning some items are over-insured and the insurance company won't pay you more than it is "worth", so check this every now and again.

Take care,

Damian

The sad passing of common sense.

Not my usual material. This came through in an email and made sense.

Today we mourn the passing of a beloved old friend, Common Sense, who has been with us for many years. No one knows for sure how old he was, since his birth records were long ago lost in bureaucratic red tape. He will be remembered as having cultivated such valuable lessons as:


- Knowing when to come in out of the rain;

- Why the early bird gets the worm;

- Life isn't always fair;

- and maybe it was my fault.

Common Sense lived by simple, sound financial policies (don't spend more than you can earn) and reliable strategies (adults, not children, are in charge).

His health began to deteriorate rapidly when well-intentioned but overbearing regulations were set in place. Reports of a 6-year-old boy charged with sexual harassment for kissing a classmate; teens suspended from school for using mouthwash after lunch; and a teacher fired for reprimanding an unruly student, only worsened his condition.

Common Sense lost ground when parents attacked teachers for doing the job that they themselves had failed to do in disciplining their unruly children.

It declined even further when schools were required to get parental consent to administer sun lotion or an aspirin to a student; but could not inform parents when a student became pregnant and wanted to have an abortion.

Common Sense lost the will to live as the churches became businesses; and criminals received better treatment than their victims.

Common Sense took a beating when you couldn't defend yourself from a burglar in your own home and the burglar could sue you for assault.

Common Sense finally gave up the will to live, after a woman failed to realize that a steaming cup of coffee was hot. She spilled a little in her lap, and was promptly awarded a huge settlement.

Common Sense was preceded in death, by his parents, Truth and Trust, by his wife, Discretion, by his daughter, Responsibility, and by his son, Reason.

He is survived by his 4 stepbrothers;

I Know My Rights

I Want It Now

Someone Else Is To Blame

I'm A Victim

I will return to the usual fare shortly, but thought this was worth posting.

Take care,
Damian

Do you know your module from your ebauche?

The bits inside a watch have many names and most people don't know what they are. Unless you are a watchmaker do you really need to know what a click spring or fourth wheel is? There are a few things that are useful to know.

For example, did you know the workings of a mechanical watch are called a movement whereas that of a quartz (battery or the more correct, cell) is called a module?

Calibre is the type or model of a movement from any manufacturer, for example ETA Valjoux 7750. ETA is the company that this very good chronograph (stopwatch and timepiece) movement is made by. Valjoux is the series and 7750 is the particular type. This could just as easily be a Ford (ETA) Focus (Valjoux) Expression (7750). So the calibre is Valjoux 7750.

Ebauche is when someone uses a movement not of their manufacture but give it a "tickle" to make it their own. This can be anything from a different finish to a few upgraded parts. The Valjoux 7750 is found in a Tissot for less than £500. This is a straight forward calibre out of the box. This same movement is also found in the Omega Seamaster although this has had the whole escapement replaced and upgraded as well as having a nice circular grained finish applied to the entire movement, this is ebauche.

Manufacture. When a watch house makes the movement "in house". Parts may be bought in but the movement will be exclusive to the manufacturer. This can mean many things but mostly means that a watch house has the technology and finances to make a manufacture movement. It does not mean it will be better. Hence Omega using the Lemania movement in the "Moonwatch" and Rolex using Zenith's "El Primero" in the Daytona. Some people already make the best.

Quartz modules or "battery movements" have a thin slice of quartz, through which the current from the cell (battery) flows. This causes it to vibrate at 32,768 times per second. This pulse is passed through a small computer chip that divides it in half 15 times to produce one pulse per second, very useful in a watch. Quartz is the only, readily available, crystaline substance that a small voltage can pass through a produce a whole number that relates to timekeeping.

Went into a little more than I intended for this post, but I hope its helpful.

Take care,
Damian

Diamonds from Zimbabwe

There is a bit of a discussion going on in the diamond trade worldwide about Robert Mugabe's plan to release rough diamonds form Zimbabwe onto the open market. Now we're not talking about a small amount here 4.4 million carats is the amount. It's enough to turn a head or two. One thing we have to remember is that historically the quality of rough from Zimbabwe is generally low. An amount of this size would probably only yield 1 to 1.5 millions carats of gem grade Diamonds. But this is still not small fry.

Where the problem arises is whether these stones are classed as "conflict" or "blood" Diamonds. Many bad things have gone on in this country, but these stones are trying to enter the market legitimately. Officials from the Kimberly Process (A process created to try and ensure global diamond sales do not fund war, drugs, oppression and other awful things) have been in talks about Zimbabwe entering the certified pipeline. I have to say that as a world leader, I don't trust this man or his regime, or in any way really. But if there is the opportunity to regulate the flow of these diamonds, it should keep the prices up a little meaning there is more money to benefit his countrymen. If it happens.

I think this is the Kimberly Process' way of keeping friends close and enemies closer. What would be the impact on world trade? Not a lot if regulated. What would happen if it wasn't regulated? Price drops and possibly a crash. If these Diamonds are banned from the market altogether, the people of Zimbabwe have no chance of reaping the benefits, whereas if they were allowed they have a slim chance.

This has left me in a bit of a quandary as to what the best answer is. I'm so glad I'm not one of the decision makers! Be interesting to see your thoughts.

Take care,
Damian

Keep up!

I have been thinking recently about my wife's profession and what she has to do. As a dental care professional (practice manager), she has to take part in "continued professional development" (CPD). Most people involved in healthcare in the U.K. have to take part in courses, meetings and assignments every year to maintain there status as qualified. If this is not done, many have to re-take exams to become qualified once more. Sometimes this means more work and effort than was originally needed to pass.

In the jewellery trade CPD is not a requirement. Some trade members go on the odd course, others try hard to absorb as much information as possible, but unfortunately many don't bother. I currently work with 3 people that hold the FGA (Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain), probably the most coveted gemstone diploma worldwide. The most recent to qualify was in 1986 and the first to qualify was in the early 60's. None of them have made great efforts to keep up to date by attending courses or seminars although one did attend a valuation conference in 1998. I try and keep them up to date with advancements in technology, treatments, synthetics etc. but they are not required to do this in order to keep their qualification, but they do need to pay an annual subscription.

The GIA (Gemmological Institute of America) have implemented their "continuing education" program, which for a fee, graduates of GIA can complete 8 assignments a year and if they achieve a passing grade they get a certificate. Great! So if one of these gemmologists are challenged, they can present a case that they are "in touch". But it's not compulsory.

This doesn't just apply to gemmologists. I know of watch repairers that don't know anything of auto generating systems such as the Seiko Kinetic (since the mid 80's). Goldsmiths that don't know how to anneal Palladium and panic when it turns purple. Sales assistants that can't speak with any authority on the qualities of Palladium verses Platinum. Sales people that don't know what they are selling. In one shop I was trying very hard not to laugh at the attempt to explain the co-axial escapement found in Omega watches. He had obviously heard about a similar term used for ariel cable and thought it sounded plausible and proceeded to tell a customer about the system of cables inside!

I'm not saying that everyone needs to spend  £5000 a year on additional training. Many suppliers and repairers would be only too happy to show you what they do at no cost. If you know more about what they do, they'll get more business. Since 2005 I have worked on a folder containing letters and certificates of attendance for various factory visits and short courses. The daft thing about this is I regard collecting the paperwork as a chore, not the learning. It's my view that all trade members should make CPD a compulsory part of their career. Any fresh information, no matter how small, can be useful if it's there for the rest of your working life.

There are a few of us out there that are "die hard" jewellers, gemmologists, watch makers, goldsmiths, silversmiths, etc. that do this constantly, because we love it. We are so passionate about what we do that we always want to be at the cutting edge. I personally may not be the best at customer service (course suggestions welcome) or writing blogs, but I try. What can I do? Lots is the short answer. Strip down a column wheel chronograph watch movement and re-assemble it? No problem. Facet a gem? Yep! Make a three stone ring? Certainly. Raise a set of silver beakers. If you've got the time to wait. Explain which gems are rare and why? O.K. Test a stone in Granny's ring and tell you if it's treated? Of course. But all because of my effort and willingness to learn.

Don't get left behind. Keep up and keep in touch. Imagine you passed an exam 10 years ago in T.V. technology. You'd know nothing of Plasma, LED, HDTV, 3D, freeview + and the list goes on. Can you really afford to be this out of touch?

Take care,
Damian Miles

CPD is a great idea, yes it costs money

Advertising on this page.

Just a quick note about the advertising on this page. I do not pick any of the adverts posted, Mr. Google does (surely there should be a Mr. Google). I cannot recommend the companies listed here. I can say Tribbecks are listed and they are a well established traditional jewellery firm that I would be happy to suggest.

If you want to sell gold, try your local jewellers first. In my experience you tend to get treated more fairly and if you don't like the price, you can simply decline and walk out.

As for the news. I've given a few keywords to do with my chosen areas. It does pick up football trophies as "silverware", vitamins and sun creams etc. as "minerals" and other related things. That's my explanation for the random looking headlines.

For all other things wrong with the blog, I apologise, but I'm still new at this.

Take care
Damian

Books, books, glorious books!

O.K. I'm a book addict. If there is a book on my areas of interest, chances are, I've got it or will have. Not just the latest book on whatever, but older books also.

I was reminded of how useful older books are when I recently received the latest offerings from Rocks of Ages (http://www.rxofages.com/). In their listings they have many books that are very hard to find. One in particular is "A System of Mineralogy" by J.D.Dana. This was originally printed in the mid to early 1800's (I know the 2nd edition was in 1844) Any edition up until the 7th edition (1944/52&62) in all three volumes are great. On the 8th edition it all went wrong. It was edited badly, condensed and poorly laid out. Faith was lost in these well respected tomes.

Never underestimate the value of older books. If you want to go gold prospecting, rock hounding or gem testing on a budget. Get an old book! Gold prospecting is big business today, but in a book of 50 -100 years ago, different types of technology were used which are now fairly easy to re-create in a small home workshop. Some old books on gem testing were published before all the flashy equipment was available. They would give instruction on making equipment. I still use a round flask full of copper sulphate solution on occasion as a blue light condenser. I picked this up from a 50's book.

Although they can be very useful, don't forget to keep up to date. If you are gem testing, it's no good relying on out of date information on treatments and synthetics. Just a quick one this time.

Take Care,
Damian

Diamond Certification.

Recently a customer asked a colleague for a D colour, Flawless (a term I think should be revised if all the gem labs are trying to say inclusions or clarity characteristics are not flaws), brilliant cut diamond ring in a Platinum mount. We didn't have anything, but to get the conversation going, she took out a D, VS1 (very slightly included) in Platinum. The customer looked shocked to see our "lesser quality" stone was about the same price as the D, Flawless he had seen in a previous shop.

She was confused and so was I. When I sat down and worked out from trade price lists, how much the stone should cost. We couldn't even buy the stone for a trade price for that, let alone in a Platinum mount! Something must have been wrong.

The customer was a reasonable person and I asked if they could go back and check that there hadn't been a mistake. When he came back, he had details of measurements, certificate etc. The main difference was the Lab issuing the certificate. Ours was a GIA (Gemomlogical Institute of America) and theirs was an EGL (European Gemmological Laboratory).

In the past I have been asked to compare certificates to diamonds in order to ascertain they are the same stone. Some labs have been easier to match than others. GIA and HRD (Diamond High Council of Antwerp) certificates are usually easy to match as I agree with the grading. With other labs I have found it quite difficult as the stones and certificates are very different, sometimes easily being 2 grades out ( a major difference in price). I've been grading for many years before anyone makes a comment on my abilities compared to a lab, and as a buyer I have to be right or the profits suffer.

After speaking to many brokers, suppliers and industry professionals, I have found out there is a definite hierarchy in labs and their certificates. The reasons for this are many and varied. From the amount of labs under one banner in different locations making consistency difficult to commercial reasons, if a lab grades your diamond higher, you may make more money on it, so they become popular.

The obvious front runners are GIA and HRD. They are both not-for-profit organisations, meaning they plough any left over funds into research, education and generally being better. The AGS (American Gem Society) is thought of highly in the states due to a small tightly controlled team providing consistent results. Anyone else it seems is fair game although IGI (International Gemmological Institute) seems to lead the runners up, even though they issue certificates on mounted stones often, which I don't like.

The other certification to watch out for is when a shop does their own. There is a certain high street chain in the UK that states that their Managing Director grades all their diamonds. If he was doing this for 12 shops, let alone how many they have, he wouldn't have time to manage and direct! As always, Buyer Beware, but trust is key.

Many lesser labs mean heavy discounts on the normal trade prices explaining the difference in price. If the above stone was a F, VVS1 the price would be bang on. Think about it.


Take care,
Damian

Independent Jewellery Valuations by Michael Inkpen FGA

On Wednesday I visited Michael Inkpen at his new office in Exeter, just to see what his set up is and have a chat.

On arrival I found the parking very easy and close to his premises. I did get a little lost due to interesting directions on the AA website. The receptionist at the office very kindly guided me in though. When I entered the building, through a nice secure airlock type system of doors, I was greeted by the receptionist and led to a comfortable seating area. Michael came out from his office and met me in a warm and friendly manor. After a brief introductions on both sides we went to his office.

Whilst Michael was telling me of his history in the trade, from an apprenticeship in London and working at the bench, through to owning and running a retail jewellers in a small Devon town to his current position of Independent Valuer at Michael Inkpen FGA. Michael truly does understand jewellery, more than many valuers, or retailers for that matter, do. Most valuers I have come in contact with have never made real jewellery, maybe a little tinkering here and there, but not making a quality piece from start to finish. Michael has. I have always believed that the best way to understand something is to have a go. This is quite evident in every word that comes from his mouth, that this is not just a job, its his passion.

Whilst listening to his fascinating history, I was looking around his office at the various books and equipment. All the usual things are there: Loupe, Diamond light, Refractometer etc. Then there is his photographic light box. When I was looking at it, I was thinking that it didn't quite look right, but I couldn't put my finger on it. It was only when Michael was showing me this that he explained he had taken it apart and reconstructed it so it worked better. Michael vs Jessops. Michael is the winner. He has a lovely little fibre optic that  fits on the end of a Maglite torch. He seems to see the possibility of improvement in everything. If you're designing a piece of equipment for gemmology, you might want to give him a call before putting it on the market!

His tinkering doesn't stop there. He was quite happily showing me a piece of appraisal software he uses and all the adjustments he's made to it. Re-writing and adding to a piece of professional appraisal software should surely be wrong, but I can see why he's done what he's done and I believe he's absolutely right! There is a piece of coloured stone grading software linked to it for more accurate colour description, avoiding the traditional "pigeon's blood" ruby (I've often wondered if that refers to fresh or dried), commercial blue sapphire and all the other misleading terms. This is the computerised version of the GIA gemset  grading system. When I occasionally photograph a piece of jewellery, I spend alot of time trying to "clean up" the image with Photoshop. Tidying the background, removing apparatus for holding items, making sure the colour is right and so on. Michael has his photo editing so nicely set up, that a whole load of operations are performed in sequence with one click!

The document you get at the end of it is professionally produced in a folder that is as tamper-proof as you can get without being a bank. The glossary of terms is customised to each valuation, so you don't get pages and pages of information you don't need. The descriptions are nicely laid out in an easy to read format and in a more technical "data sheet" style for ease of access to statistics. As well as a small thumbnail sized image next to the description, there is a larger image gallery, which is very useful.

All in all, I'm impressed. He has a very professional approach with very reliable systems in place. Nice to deal with too. For any member of the public reading this, give him a call. For any retailers. Shouldn't you be selling jewellery, not staring down a microscope? Check him out at http://www.jewellery-valuer.co.uk/

Take care,

Damian

Cheaper alternatives for jewellery tools.

For a while I have been considering purchasing a heated pickle tank. For the unfamiliar, a heated pickle tank keeps your acid or safety pickle warm/hot to aid the removal of oxides from precious metals after heating or soldering. They are very handy as a warm pickle will work much faster than cold, speeding up your work.

The thing about them is, they're expensive. I recently discovered a cheaper alternative of a baby's bottle/food warmer. If this is used with a small Pyrex beaker (try ebay), it provides a perfectly suitable solution for smaller amounts of jewellery to be pickled. You must keep an eye on the temperature and as always with corrosive substances, be careful.

How did I discover this? I'm expecting to become a dad for the second time shortly and my wife and I have been bringing out all the baby paraphenalia. I had to do a quick soldering job and was just about to make up a new batch of pickle with hot water when I spotted the warmer on the side and decided it would be a good idea. My wife disagrees! After an ear bending I've decided to use it when she's not around!

Hopefully I will be able to give you some other ideas at different stages.

Take care,

Damian

Independent Jewellery Valuers. Good or Bad?

Independent valuers have started to "crop up" more frequently in recent years and are regarded by many traditionalists to be inferior. An independent valuer (I.V.) is someone who is set up to valuations and not a lot else. An I.V. can't, by definition, be employed by or strongly affiliated with a retailer or manufacturer.

The traditionalists say "How can an I.V. be in touch with current prices and trends when they aren't directly connected with the retail trade?", and I confess I was one of them. If you're in retail, you are directly connected to current trends, manufacturers prices, maybe even the experience of dealing in secondhand and antique jewellery. They're isolated, locked away in an office somewhere guessing at prices. When your that distanced from the cutting edge, how can you be even close to right? To be independent, you can't really phone the person that sold it recently and say "How much?". They've got to be inferior, right?

Then I look at my situation. In my retail role, I deal with sales, repairs, estimating, advertising, marketing, buying, more selling, handling phone calls, dealing with insurance claims, training staff, doing the displays and everything else.When have I got the time to research values, markets, treatments and synthetics, methods of manufacture through the ages and all the other things that make a competent valuer. I just happen to be one of those sad people that is so passionate about the trade and my part in it, I am often working and researching well into the night.

An independent valuer is able to focus on all of these things and more. Some of the most respected gemmologists in the world are valuers and appraisers. It gives them an opportunity to hone their skills on a daily basis. They can be constantly looking for tricks where retailers can get lazy, being used to relying on what their suppliers say rather than looking for themselves. How do they keep up to date? Monitoring data. Paying attention to shifting markets subscribing to some of the best price lists available and using some great software. Not only this, but also they offer more services than your average jeweller's undertaking more than insurance valuations. They have not got a vested interest in the final value and tend to charge set fees rather than percentage based fees, so no incentive to over inflate your valuation.

Where most jeweller's offer a simple colour description and sometimes, but not always, a photograph, specialist valuers almost always include a photograph and very often a way of describing and communicating colours. Adrian Smith (http://www.adrian-smith.co.uk/) a valuer in Scotland has even gone so far as to purchase a piece of equipment that analyses and presents in a graphical form how a diamond handles light. I spend a lot of time explaining this to customers, but now he can show them! For the most part I think traditional jewellers doing things in house would not see this kind of purchase as a viable investment when there is stock to buy. This is what puts them ahead. Where I work we have a very simple darkfield microscope that cost about £250 and just about does the job, but the lighting isn't very good. In gemmology lighting and observation are of paramount importance. Where I usually use this once a week an appraiser would use it everyday, so it's worth spending more on a good one.

Just re-visiting the colour communication aspect. An american appraiser has recently contacted me regarding the testing of someones ability to perceive colour. It is now commonplace to have a test on colour perception every couple of years. After passing this test, you are issued with a certificate confirming you have a good recognition of colour. It might sound odd, but would you want someone who is colour blind to a degree valuing your precious Ruby or Emerald? This is a test available in the U.K. and more valuers are taking it, particularly people that value all the time (i.e. independent valuers). Another important point. How many traditional valuers go to these lengths. If you do I would be interested to hear.

The report you get from an independent valuer or one of the larger valuation companies lists in a very technical manor everything that is deemed worth mentioning and can be many pages long as the example on Michael Inkpen' s website (http://www.jewellery-valuer.co.uk/) . This is not to my taste as I prefer to see things laid out in an easy to read format made up of sentences. It's purely a taste thing. The report style has all the necessary information and probably more than the "story" style and would be better to have.

The important thing to remember is a valuation shows its true worth when things go wrong and the more detail you have, the less fighting you have to do with an insurer, solicitor, executor or whoever else. From a public point of view, I.V.'s can usually produce a more comprehensive report for you and make life easier in the event of an insurance claim for example.

From a trade point of view. Are you really the best person to be doing this? Would you rather shave a little off your insurance policy by not needing the liability cover. You could put money into stock that would otherwise need to be invested in subscriptions, equipment and software. Save the time needed for research and continued learning (never stop learning though). If you don't do things in house, by using an I.V. you won't be sending customers to another shop to spend their money. Think about it.

Below I have listed some reputable Independent Valuers and their general locations, if it's of help.

South West England: Michael Inkpen http://www.jewellery-valuer.co.uk/

Scotland: Adrian Smith http://www.adrian-smith.co.uk/

North West England: Georgina Deer http://www.valuemyjewellery.co.uk/

Ireland: Padraic Lavin http://www.jewelleryvaluationsireland.ie/

One of those posts that could go on forever. Even though we do valuations in-house where I am, I don't think it's the future. I think I could re-visit this one again. Please feel free to comment as this is all about sharing information.

Take care,

Damian

ALERT Keishi pearls entering the Natural Pearl Trade.

The Swiss Gemmological Institute(SSEF) has recently had several lots of pearls submitted for testing and certification. Many natural pearl dealers have become suspicious of the amount of natural pearls suddenly passing through the trade. After testing by various means the conclusion is that these are cultured Keishi pearls. To read more please see www.ssef.ch/en/news/news_pdf/newsletter_pearl_2010May.pdf . Yet another example of where good communication amongst the gem community is essential in combating the less scrupolous members of the trade. Take care, Damian

Independent Valuations in the South West U.K.

Independent jewellery valuations: A valuation by someone who has not got a vested interest in the outcome. A pretty essential thing I would say. If a valuation is provided by someone other than an independent valuer, they may have an interest in calculating a higher or lower figure to suit their ends. This may just be my simplified view, but I think it's important. Also, if someone is focused on just one area (valuations) they are more likely to keep up to date with all the latest tricks being used by the more dishonest members of the trade, such as treatments. Working in a retail environment, I don't have as much time to focus on these aspects as I would like. Many "in-house" valuations are carried out by people that aren't dedicated valuers. Anyway, I'm getting into a blog that I am going to write at a later date. The purpose of this post is to let anyone reading this in the South West of England know that Michael Inkpen FGA(http://www.jewellery-valuer.co.uk/) has now moved to Exeter. If you are not familiar with Michael, he has a wealth of experience in jewellery valuations. He has worked in retail and has the respect of many people in the trade (even though he doesn't realise how good he is). Many thanks to Adrian Smith (http://www.adrian-smith.co.uk/) for keeping me informed of this VERY important development. More to come shortly! Take care, Damian

Entering the trade. Where to begin your training.

In January of this year I attended a week long Diamond Grading lab class with GIA (Gemological Institute of America) London (www.gialondon.co.uk). Which I have to say was very good. I was very surprised by the variation in students there. The students ranged from me with 18 years experience under my belt, through career changing budding designers, people with an interest in jewellery to one person who was interested in buying Diamonds, but wasn't confident in his local jewellers. Wow! What a mixed bag.

If you are entering the trade, think very carefully about the courses you want to do. When talking to fellow students during breaks, it was obvious that many had picked the wrong course. Whereas this course was very good, a design course may have been better for some. The people just entering the trade may have found the NAG (National Association of Goldsmiths) JET 1 & 2 courses better suited (www.jewellers-online.org). The GIA do an entry level course and qualification, but although much of the knowledge is transferable, it is obviously an American course. The students that "just wanted to make jewellery" would have found the "Introduction to jewellery making" short course at The School of Jewellery in Birmingham (www.schoolofjewellery.co.uk ) just perfect. Buying a Diamond? Gem-A (www.gem-a.com ) offer a basic Diamond grading introduction. I have found both the courses and instructors at these places very good. If you wanted to get a little further on, you can feed your need with more in depth courses on gemmology, diamonds, jewellery making, design, valuations, engraving, setting........the list goes on, you can find something to suit through one of these providers.

If you do decide to take on any of these courses, don't treat it as a hobby, the more you put into it, the more you'll get out of it. Any course fees you pay are an investment in your progression and success, just make sure it's the right course for you.

I have to make a special mention for the GIA instructor from the Diamond Grading course, Bingham Henderson. She was very good at balancing her time between students of mixed experience and abilities. From past experience I have found that tutors either spend more time with experienced people, because its easier, or with fresh students, because they know nothing and need more help. This is a very difficult balance to maintain. There were class members that were much more challenging than others in their needs and also people like me with bad habits to re-train. She managed to do this and get an excellent pass rate from her students. Very good. My only problem was the fact that some mathematics were involved which she said were basic. Buy a calculator before you go! Her idea of basic maths and mine were a little different!

Thanks for reading, contact me if you want anymore information and i will see what I can do.

Take care.

Damian

Beware New Ruby Treatment.

Lead glass filled Rubies have been around for a while now. With a trained eye you can spot the difference in lustre on occasion but it's easier to identify if you can see the "flash effect" caused by the difference in optical properties. Slight problem, now they have got around flash effect by using additives other than lead. This produces a very good effect, which is much harder to recognise. It's still breaking news for the moment and when I have more information I'll let you know. The gist is, if you are offered too good to be true Rubies, think! Take Care Damian

Very cool tool: Horn mallets.

There was once a tool that was commonplace in most jewellery and silversmithing workshops. This was the horn mallet or hammer (I won't be drawn on the difference, it gets too technical). These were usually made from a compressed Ram's horn wrapped as Rawhide mallets are typically constructed. Some were made of a material more dense material such as Buffalo horn, which was made from a block and shaped from there. I have always thought the Buffalo mallets were far superior as they do not de-laminate over time and start to unravel. Also, in my experience, Buffalo is less likely to chip, that said always wear eye protection because when you make things of beauty it is useful to be able to see them! Whats the point of these mallets? Horn is harder and heavier than wood, even Lignum Vitae. It is however, limited by the size of the raw material. If you want to use a hammer or mallet that is small and easy to wield, will shape and stretch precious metals, but.....here's the important bit......won't mark the metal like steel, horn is the answer. They are also great for adjusting watch bracelets with pins you have to hammer as if you slip it won't mark the bracelet or leave behind filings as brass ones do.I've been making and using horn mallets up to 28mm diameter for many years now and would never go back. I have recently found a good reliable supplier for horn from the Indian Water Buffalo. Yes, this is material from an actual animal, but is a by product of the meat industry, just the same as leather. I believe this is a great way to show respect for the animal as just using the meat is wasteful (this is also Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall's philosophy). Having found this supplier, I am trying to get someone interested in supplying these to the trade and public. I think this is just the beggining as there are many other applications for horn. If you make handmade chain, I will be making some very special winding sticks. Great tools to use wether you are a professional and enjoying using something of quality or a craft worker with a slightly damp workshop (they don't rust). If I get someone interested ,I will let you all know. Take care, Damian.

Gemmology: Don't forget the BASICS!

I was reading a blog of Eric Emms(FGA DGA) the other day, entitled "The New Gemmology" (http://ericemms.blogspot.com/2010/03/new-gemmology.html). In this blog he explains that gemmology is getting ever more scientific with all the new equipment available, that allows a more in depth analysis of a gem material.

These are big expensive pieces of equipment that are housed in the larger gem labs and universities and are proving very helpful in the identification of new synthetics and treatments.

It used to be a matter of course that when you entered the jewellery trade you enrolled in two courses to gain qualifications. The first was The Retail Jewellers Diploma (R.J.Dip. now The Professional Jewellers Diploma, P.J.Dip.) to gain knowledge about all the various aspects of the retail jewellers role. The second was enrolling on the Diploma course in gemmology from the Gemmological Association of Great Britain and Ireland, to gain an excellent understanding of gemmology and ultimately the F.G.A. I have spoken to many colleagues in recent years that are either too focused on sales or don't see the point in studying gemmology "because it's all done in labs now" rather than using some skills in store.

Erics next point is to say that the new gemmologist's job is to explain gems, synthetics, treatments and of course the beauty of these pieces to the trade and public. I spend hours every day explaining what a Tourmaline is, how angles and percentages affect the light performance of a Diamond, what is the difference between Akoya cultured pearls and Natural Pearls, what does heat treated mean, and so on. But I am able to do this with confidence because of the training I have had. So Eric is right, but this is only part of the new gemmologist's role.

We need to have more gemmologist's in or close to retail in order to protect the trade and public alike. Unfortunately there are many rogue traders in the world that don't tell the truth either intentionally or through ignorance. All jewellery professionals need a basic training using the most useful equipment a good pair of eyes and a loupe or eyeglass. This was something reinforced by Edward Johnson of GIA London where I attended a course in January. My view is it's easier to stumble into trouble with your eyes closed!

You also need to train your eyes. After coming back from a weeks Diamond Grading, I noticed colour or lack of it in everything. When a tap was running, I could easily detect the slight differences in the water coming out, just the same as Diamonds in the normal colour range. Something that made me think of doing this blog this mornig was this. My wife tells me off for putting spread on the toast on the kitchen worktop intead of on a plate. If she had an eye as trained as mine I would never get away with it. When you spread toast on a worktop it stays relativly flat, if you spread it on a plate it takes on the curvature of the plate. Yes, I know it's very sad that I notice these things, but it helps me to be a good gemmologist! Get looking!

Take care,

Damian

Soft steel used on watches.

Another quick one. There has been alot of discussion on watch forums about qualities and hardnesses of steel used for watch cases and bracelets. Does it matter? O.K. Rolex are known to use a very hard steel alloy. Through my personal experiences this has meant the bracelets, when combined with screws to hold them together instead of pins, last a long time. The steel has a slightly bluish hue and quite simple finishes are applied. Omega on the other hand are getting slated for using a soft steel. Yes they do mark more easily and the bracelets, with their pinned construction, wear out faster. So this is bad isn't it? In my opinion, no. Using a slightly softer steel allows a more delicate finish to be applied. Omega's ground finish looks as fine as most other brushed finishes and their brushed finish is one of the finest, silky finishes you will see! Also, I think about shocks on a car giving a more comfortable ride for the passenger. A slightly softer case will absorb the shock of knock better and protect its passenger, the movement, a lot better. Softer steel is easier to re-finish when the watch isn't looking so tidy also. The construction of bracelets poses another problem. If you chew the head off a bracelet link screw, you're stuck. With a pin and sleeve construction, no problem. With Omega's newer screw and pin construction, it doesn't matter if you chew up one end as the other will work. Harder, sometimes makes things harder and softer can usually make things smoother. Take Care Damian

Valuations are truly amazing.

Just a quick observation on this one. I find it amazing that when someone has something valued for insurance, they never dispute a higher valuation than last time, but always challenge a lower one. A very recent example was a customer that had remembered a valuation from 8 years ago on two items. The first was an 18ct gold bracelet that had risen in price by five times, no problem, not even mentioned. The second article was a Sapphire and Diamond ring valued at £500 less than its previous valuation of £3000, chaos breaks out! I had everything from an incompetent valuer to bad typist thrown at me, but only one item could possibly have been wrong! After explaining the process, comparing with current stock and other measures, I would have come out at a figure slightly less again, but could see how the figure was achievable. It turned out that this previous valuation may have been fictional and the best part of the complaint was "Whenever we have taken this to a jeweller for cleaning they have always said it was a very nice ring". Two points to mention. Firstly "nice" or "bad" are relative. A tramp may think a corduroy jacket with patches on the elbows is great whereas someone who is used to Armani suits wouldn't use it to clean their shoes. Secondly, I have never known a jeweller to say "Certainly we will clean your ring for you, its worth £3000 exactly". A final thought is, what if the bracelet was overvalued? This customer could have it index linked on their policy for 20 years, be paying out an extortionate rate to insure it and only get paid its current value at the time if it gets lost. More of a rant this time than useful information, for that I apologise. But do think about valuations and when to challenge them. Damian

Molluscs with a bit of Culture: The Queen Conch.

The Conch (Konk) pearl, also known as the pink pearl, is one of the most beautiful gifts that the natural world offers us in the way of gems. They come in colours from the palest pink through peachy hues to strong pink, brown and orange. Its not just the colour that's so special, they have a distinctive flame like pattern in their structure that is visible to the naked eye. This is caused by a the fibrous formation of the pearl. They are not nacreous as most pearls we are familiar with are. That's not all. Until very recently, if you saw a Conch pearl, it was natural. The Queen Conch (Strombus Gigas) is usually found in sea grass beds down the western side of the Americas from Florida to the northern coast of South America. It is now becoming endangered because its habitat is becoming smaller and mans interference, of course is playing a part. They have a pretty long life if left alone living for up to 40 years but reaching full size after only 3. In November 2009 it was announced that Scientists from Florida Atlantic University's Harbour Branch Oceanographic Institute, had suceeded in producing a cultured Conch pearl. Over a period of 2 1/2 years they produced around 200 pearls which have been thoroughly examined by The Gemological Institute of America (GIA). The GIA have written up a report that is in the current issue of Gems & Gemology (Definitely worth subscribing too). These are very difficult to culture and people have been trying for in excess of 20 years. The pearls are produced in the gonad of the Conch which proves difficult to access in its spiral shell. I won't go into all the technical details as the GIA have handled that brilliantly, as they do. When I first heard this news, I can't say I was pleased. Making a rare article commonplace can never be good......Right? I suppose this was the kind of reception Mikimoto got when he perfected the Akoya cultured pearl and look what happened there. Beautiful cultured pearls being worn and appreciated by many people and not confined to the privileged few. I have seen a couple of Conch pearls and have been totally captivated by their flame like beauty. Imagine what it would be like to show and share these special treasures to the masses. I would dearly love to deal with their unique beauty on a day to day basis and now maybe I could? Okay about turn. Brilliant! Bring on the cultured Conch. I can't wait to buy and sell my first cultured Conch pearl necklet with matching earrings! Take Care, Damian

Welders for jewellery. So expensive.... or are they?

Whenever anyone mentions welding jewellery, they are usually met with one of two reactions. Philistine, they obviously don't understand the intricacies of soldering. Or the other, teeth sucking and comments on the cost of the machines used. Jewellery welding, that is, joining two pieces of precious metal by fusing and not introducing a solder, is usually performed on a large and expensive laser machine. But not always.....

Last year I had the opportunity of using the PUK 3 precision welder developed by Lampert of Germany. This was on a one day course at Birmingham's School of Jewellery helped along by Sutton Tools of Birmingham, who supply this piece of equipment in the U.K. Its different to other welders as it is a precision TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) welder. Whats the difference? A laser welder uses a concentrated "beam" to weld whereas the PUK uses an electrical arc. The laser has more power and a few other advantages such as being able to weld metals of different thermal conductivity, but most decent ones cost in excess of £15,000. But you can buy the best PUK set up for about £3,500. and it takes up less space.

What can it do? LOTS! The PUK3 Pro is a very versatile machine, it uses a small electrical arc to superheat a small area causing it to melt and cool quickly, fusing, resulting in a joint. The arc and metal are covered in a shielding gas such as BOC's Argosheild so oxides are kept to a minimum creating a stronger joint. It has different modes for different jobs and a good range of power and timing adjustability.

What did I do with it? Again, LOTS! I took as many examples of tricky repairs with me as possible. Everything from silver jump rings threaded onto pearls using silk, as silver conducts heat very well and silk and pearls are easily damaged by heat, through very thin Victorian plaque brooches, that easily melt due to lack of material, to Platinum rings , because platinum always shows up its solder joins. I also re-tipped a claw on an 9ct gold Amethyst ring. Joined heavy silver jump rings (2 x 1.5mm). Joined jump rings in silver, 9ct and 18ct gold and Platinum. Welded together steel plates to make a model fish (I was playing at this point). I even joined some pieces of Titanium together, which under normal circumstances can't be done in a jewellery workshop. By using fine wires of various materials it is possible to add or build up metal.

There are many possibilities for this machine from tidying up imported goods and porosity to premanufacture "tacking" rather than using binding wire. As this is pretty clean requiring a little bit of a brush up on chain and charm welding it would be ideally suited to use by a retailer. No acids, messy polishing or combustible gases are needed, so why not have one? A major advantage of the PUK over laser is you can't miss the metal and damage a Diamond as you can with a laser. You can set presets for welding charms, ring sizing or any other regular job, making jobs much quicker. Its quick and simple to use as long as you have a basic idea of how metals work. There is very little heat transference, meaning you can hold pieces in your hands for maximum flexibility in holding. But you do need a firm and steady hold.

In conclusion if I had a spare £3500, I would buy one without question. A very versatile tool with many possibilities, don't think of just jewellery. If you are presented with a steel or titanium watch clasp, no problem. Costume jewellery or enamelled pieces, pick it up tomorrow? Hole in the claw of an Emerald ring, sure why not. You can repair items that would be uneconomical or further damaged by traditional means. If Lampert are reading this, yes I would gratefully receive a free one (might as well try).

For more information on these brilliant bits of kit please visit www.lampert.info you can find some videos of it in use there. Also www.suttontools.co.uk as they are the U.K. distributor.

I hope this is of use to you. Take Care.

Damian

Collecting Minerals: Where to start? Part 1

So, you would like to start a mineral collection. Where do you start? I often think back to when I started collecting in 1989. The first time I entered a mineral shop, and on many times after, It felt like I was on a bungee cord attached to the middle of the shop. I would be looking in one cabinet drooling over some specimens and suddenly get snapped back on the cord to the other side to drool over something else. Its a huge subject with many areas to cover.

Do you start collecting in a systematic way? Do you collect gem species or different types of one mineral? Do you collect specimens that are local to you, or in your country or even a specific country? How about from a particular type of rock, a particular habit or smaller niche? Its enough to make your head spin. Then you have to think about sizes of specimens,micromounts, thumbnails, miniatures,small cabinets, cabinets and museum sizes. Would you be happy to have a mixture of sizes?

My collection was one of the most random I have ever known with a large assortment of sizes, types and qualities. It was more a case of "I haven't got one of those, I'll have it" rather than does that work or fit. After about five years I cleared out most of my collection and started again. Working with jewellery, it made sense to look at gem materials. Being in the Southwest of England there is a great range of local minerals from copper bearing to barites and due to clay quarries, I had access to some simple Pseudomorphs. Et voila! The backbone of my collection was born! The sizes were a bit chaotic to start with, but always think of your collection as mobile and fluid. If you find a better specimen buy it and sell the old one.

Most of my collection is now in the thumbnail size category, which means they should fit into a 25mm (1") cube. I also have a few miniatures ( up to 40mm cubed) and small cabinet (up to 60mm cubed) and even some up to museum (over 100mm cubed). Most of my gem collection are thumbnails due to cost of fine examples whereas the pseudomorphs are all sorts of sizes because you collect what you can, when you can and the choice is more limited.

You need to pick an area to start, here are a few suggestions;

Metallic: Pure metals: gold, silver etc. Combined metals: Electrum etc.

Crystal system: e.g. Isometric: Diamonds, Garnets etc.

Unique properties: Fluorescent or phosphorescent species.

Group of category: Silicates e.g. Quartz.

Subcategories:e.g. Zeolites subcategory of silicates.

Specific species:e.g. The many forms of Calcite.

What to buy, tough one. The best examples you can afford with as much detail as possible. Ideally you want to know what it is with any subcategories, where its from (country, state/province, mine etc.) and if its from the collection of another collector. If crystals are present, make sure they aren't damaged or have the most minute amount of damage. Quality and provenance are very important. If your collection is going to be on display you may be more interested in aesthetics than a collector that will place pieces in a system of drawers. A nicely formed, text book, bright red spinel crystal on a white marble matrix may look better than a misaligned twinned crystal on grey marble, although the twin may be more interesting.

If you can find a mentor to help you, do. Someone with experience can help you avoid expensive mistakes. Find a collection or collector that you would like to emmulate. One collector I admire is Ralph Clark who was featured in The Mineralogical Record vol. 33 no. 2. He has a wonderful collection, some of this is shown in an article available to view at www.minrec.org/pdfs/TheMineralogicalRecord_CollectorsProfile.pdf talk about fussy, but then again, how cool is his collection?

I hope to create more blogs to follow this hence"Part 1" when I can, please keep reading and let me know of any questions you would like answered or suggestions.

Good luck for now, its a long journey that you will never complete, but its great fun!

Trade Alert: Diffusion Treated Corundum

A quick alert. The U.K. jewellery trade has recently been targeted by unscrupulous gem dealers passing of lattice diffused corundums, particularly blue sapphires. This is the perfect example of manufacturers buyers getting too comfortable. Keep alert. Diffusion treatments produce colours that are too good to be true. When was the last time you had your pick of fine colour sapphires? They are still hard to come by. If you employ gemmologists or people with gemmological training, get them earning their pay and saving you from costly litigation. These treatments are usually easy to spot with a microscope, methelene iodide immersion liquid, darkfield lighting and patience. This treatment penetrates to a maximum depth of 0.5mm, usually alot less, as this would mean a longer treatment and more money is spent. Look out for lighter colour facet junctions and pitted girdles. Because the treatment is shallow, it needs to be perform on pre-cut stones. The excessive heat, effectively melts the surface, meaning it has to be repolished. Facet junctions receive more polishing, therefore the treatment is removed from there first. Most lapidaries working on these treated stones are too lazy to polish girdles again, leaving behind the altered surface. If you need further information there are plenty of sources. In particular I would refer you to www.ruby-sapphire.com where the great Richard Hughes has a an article titled "Vampire Blues". Please take note, as he suggests this is not new, just recycled. Take care Damian

Buyer Beware!

As the weather is starting to lift(?) thoughts for many are turning to holidays in foreign climates. And why not? Its nice to get a break and get caught up in the atmosphere and romance of somewhere exotic. But please, please don't get caught out with that "bargain" piece of jewellery, that "cost a fraction of the over-inflated U.K. price.

I work for a jewellery retailer in the South West of England. I am forever having to break bad news to people that have purchased abroad. Don't get me wrong, some pieces have been bought well, for reasonable prices, but an awful lot have been poorly made, adjusted incorrectly, stones have been treated in ways that should be disclosed and some stones have even been totally different to what they should have been.

I have had to tell people that Rubies they have purchased are actually Garnets, although they have paid prices way above Garnet. A Synthetic (man made) Emerald ring was brought in where someone had paid £1000 for it, great colour but sadly the customer thought they were buying a natural Emerald, I would have paid £70 retail for the stone! Very recently I was shown a ring with ten perfectly matching Blue Diamonds set in it. Now, Natural Blue Diamonds are relatively rare, so finding ten perfectly matching ones is a VERY difficult task. Remarkably they had found these and managed to sell the ring with a free Diamond set wedding ring for £1,600.The conclusion was that these were treated by irradiation, a treatment that customers would definately be told in the U.K. Some of these were simple misunderstandings through language barriers and some were obvious attemps to con holiday makers that weren't likely to be back the folowing week.

In the U.K. consumer protection is taken very seriously, whether it's hallmarking, disclosure of treatments or use of correct descriptions. The U.K. jewellery trade make training a very high priority. In fact, in 2005 I was told that one particular eastern European country had fewer trained gemmologists than we have on our staff!

Occasionally an honest mistake will be made in the U.K. trade, but the stakes are too high here. If you repeatedly make these mistakes it is taken as deliberate and you would be alienated by most of the trade.

As a couple of last notes on this topic, if you do buy, don't forget to declare it at customs, otherwise technically it's smuggling. Be prepared for bad news unless your an expert, even I would be nervous and I know alot!

Take Care and enjoy your holidays.